MONTREAL

Montreal

Montreal has been my Summer Reset for the past two decades. A kindred spirit of New York in many ways but with a unique personality that blends and celebrates many cultures. It is complete with amazing food, vibrant arts, walkable streets, nature, and easy public transit. 

The Food

The beckoning smell of charcoal wafting through the air from the Portuguese Rotisserie chicken places and the aroma of bread and croissants from the bakeries greet me on my walks through the Plateau. Taking advantage of Quebec's well-known dairy production, the ice cream shops in the city do not disappoint. And no trip of mine would be complete without multiple visits to the Marche Publics, the municipal food markets.

Arts

Our family's trip is generally planned around the Montreal Jazz Festival so we are awash in musical nights. Public art in the form of murals greet visitors throughout the city care of the Mural Festival. Some other favorite artsy spots are the galleries in Old Montreal, The McCord Stewart Museum for some social history, and PHI for cutting edge art.   

Walks and Rides

Montreal is named after the mountain that inhabits the city. With hiking and biking trails, a lake and a view of the city, it is a must. The bike path along the canal near the Atwater market is relatively flat and is a peaceful ride. And a walk through a Montreal neighborhood is a delight. Our family did this one through Little Burgundy (there are many others if you follow the link) and learned about the once thriving middle-class Black neighborhood whose fate, like those in US cities, was sealed by the decision to build a highway right through the heart of the neighborhood.

Some of my Faves:

Markets and Specialty Shops:

• Jean Talon Market: I could spend hours here. And if you're like me you'll need some sustenance. The kabobs at An Nasr don't disappoint, on weekends there is fresh fried seafood at Le Poissonerie Aqua Mere. I always stop into the Vrac en Folie, where you can buy spices and nuts in bulk, Le Fromagerie Hamel for cheese and cheese curds (as well as an excellent chocolate selection. 

• Atwater Market: Get a bite at Satay Brothers or Alwyn BBQ before exploring the rest of the market.

• Etats de Choc: to explore chocolates from Canada and beyond!

• Piko Peppers: for the hot sauce lovers there are many choices.

Ice Cream

• Cremerie Meu Meu: The flavors here are outstanding and they change everyday.

• Le Bilboquet: I fell for their chocolate orange ice cream and if it’s in rotation, it is the one I get.

• Bo-Bec: The ice cream here is fresh and delicious.

• Chocolats de Chloe: Go for the ice cream sandwiches (and the chocolate isn't bad either)

Breakfast and Lunch

• Byblos: Iranian breakfast with amazing jam and bread. The omelette with cardamom and rose petals or dill and feta are very good and like nothing you get at a regular breakfast spot. There is a cheese shop down the street, too.

• Beauty's Luncheonette: Family owned. I dare say that it is better than many NYC diners and has smoothies that worth the trek alone.

Bakeries and Coffee

• Au Kougin Amann: Everything. Buttery, flakey, dreamy (not for the gluten free).

• Mamie Clafoutis: The miche here is my go-to, and a croissant.

• Boulangerie Guillaume: There are so many choices at this bakery so go hungry.

• Cafe St. Louis: A cute coffee shop in the plateau, perfect to linger over your cup of coffee and their croissants are amazing.

• Cafe Olympico: Coffee, iced coffee, coffee icees, cookies, and canolis. And the place to watch a football (soccer) match.

Lunch and Dinner

• Romados or Ma Poulet Mouille: You can’t go wrong with either for Portuguese rotisserie chicken, fries, and salad. You can smell the charcoal from a block away so you’ll know when you’re close. The lines at Ma Poulet are long, but move quickly. As a bonus you can take your eats to the park across the street!

• Lloydies: Go for the Jamaican patties, jerk, and the great sorrel and ginger beer.

• Fol fol: The take out joint of the more fancy Damas across the street, the food is impeccable.

• Patati Patata: Open late at night and perfect for a quick bite. They make terrific burgers, sandwiches, salad, fries.

• Petit Poisson Dumplings: Sometimes you want a steamy basket of dumplings or bao, and this is the place.

Dinner

• Papito Restaurant: Wood fired and farm fresh, what more could you want.

• Garde Manger: A chef's restaurant that feels like a cavern meets club. Yummy, pricey, and an experience

• La Banquise: A very large menu, famous for poutine, and kind of like an all night diner.

• Schwartz's A Montreal institution serving signature smoked meat sandwiches - must go at least once!